Technical Advice
Natural Stone, Porcelain or Ceramic?
At Terrazzo Tiles we supply a wide range of both natural products and man-made tiles and as a result we often get asked about their relative merits. To some extent, objective facts and figures can be given, but part of our job is to match a product to a customer. This means determining whether concerns about maintenance in what may be a low traffic area are misplaced - or establishing whether given a certain budget, it is worth compromising on the look in order to minimise maintenance headaches in the future.
Most decisions about wall or floor tiles can usually be broken down into 3 basic considerations; cost, aesthetics and practicality. For most people, the tension between these three considerations often means that a visit to the tile shop usually take longer than 5-10 minutes. Quick decisions only really occur when one of these factors is not an issue.
Cost:
Limestone
Click here to go to our Limestone Gallery
Click here to go to our Limestone Effect Porcelain Gallery
On the whole a ceramic or porcelain tile will be noticeably cheaper than a limestone tile counterpart. The exception to this will tend to be in the larger formats like rectified 60cm*60cm or 120cm*60cm. Ceramic and Porcelain tends to be more affordable at 30cm*30cm - 50cm*50cm sizes.
Terracotta
Click here to go to our Terracotta Gallery
Click here to go to our Terracotta Effect Porcelain Gallery
Our current experience is that Ceramic & Porcelain have replaced machine-made terracotta for those that are looking for that earthenware look. However if you are looking for for the hand-made terracotta look, there is no satisfactory substitute. A good, Italian porcelain will generally cost more than a basic Spanish machine-made terracotta tile, but by the time you have included the extra materials in your cost (Primer/Wax or Impregnator / Sealant) and the fixer's time, the difference becomes minimal. It is also worth noting that smooth machine-made terracotta tends to be less forgiving than hand-made terracotta.
Slate
Click here to go to our Slate Gallery
Click here to go to our Slate Effect Gallery
The main issue with honed slate is its susceptibility to scratching. Also, we would recommend that the slate sealant, be re-applied every 18 months.
Porcelain counterparts are very similar in price (although it tends to be the case that if it is cheaper than slate, it will look cheap) but if maintenance is an issue, they are worth considering. There is however no porcelain match for the natural beauty and variation of slate, and a well-maintained slate will give many years of service.
Marble:
Click here to go to our Marble Gallery
Click here to go to our Marble Effect Gallery
There are some marble equivalents in Porcelain, but in our experience, no porcelain achieves the exquisite nature of marble.
Wet Areas
We generally make a distinction between tiling around general wet areas (e.g. baths with or without showers) and more demanding applications such as dedicated or enclosed showers. Most of the products we sell as wall tiles including Mexican tiles, and most natural stone tiles are suitable for tiling in general wet areas as long as :
1) The area is correctly prepared to take tiling.
2) A good quality adhesive is used appropriate to the substrate. The adhesive should be applied as a solid bed without voids behind the tiles.
3) Where possible, a grout with waterproof additive should be used.
4) Where appropriate, a sealant should be applied to the tiles.
5) Joints should be finished with a silicon sealant.
Dedicated showers create a more demanding environment for tiles. To this extent we may not recommend certain more rudimentary handmade tiles and may suggest that extra precautions be taken with most natural materials. Modern power-showers can generate extreme demands on tiles and therefore we may be cautious in our recommendations about what tiles should be used and we would also recommend that every precaution be taken to ensure that the whole system doesn't fail.
Our general guiding principle with showers is to suggest that customers ensure that the structure is as waterproof as possible prior to tiling. It is very easy to install perfectly adequate tiles onto a porous plasterboard background and for water to find its way through a pinhole in the grout, around the back of the tiles and for the plasterboard to break down and the tiles to eventually lift off. There are a number of ways of avoiding this scenario:
1) Tile Backer Boards. There are a number of proprietary boards designed to receive tiles. The advantage of these materials is that they are specifically designed for tile installation and are dimensionally inert in moist or wet environments.
2) Waterproof membranes. (Ditra Matting) There are a number of products available using acrylic-based flexible coatings and polyester mesh. The advantage of these products is that they can be applied over existing boards. In principle one could use these products to create a waterproof cardboard box. For more information, contact us on 0207 485 7227.
A kit for an average shower (BAL Wp1 Shower kit) is around £75. If this is used with BAL adhesives and grouts, BAL will offer a 10 year guarantee on their products. Adhesive manufacturers are notoriously circumspect in their recommendations, but at the very least in the event of a wet area failure one should be entitled to an independent inspection. BAL currently market a product called Mosaic Fix which, despite its name, is in fact a white, waterproof, flexible adhesive which will fix mosaic, wall tiles, porcelain and stone tiles to all standard bathroom surfaces, coverage is approximately 8-10m2 per 20kg bag. Highly Recommended.
3) Marine-ply. This is more suitable than most generic boards but could possibly warp in certain high humidity situations.
4) Concrete block/rendered walls. These walls will present less of a problem but it's unlikely that they will constitute all the walls in the area. In addition to the above, one should take the usual precautions about using a solid bed waterproof adhesive, waterproof grout, sealants where appropriate, and silicon joints, again, where appropriate.
External Areas:
Most of our external quality products are relatively slim, usually between 20-25mm thick. This means that they have to be fixed using standard tiling techniques onto a prepared surface. They cannot be installed like paving slabs,
In terms of general suitability the main concern is frost resistance. There are two basic categories here: those that have a manufacturers' guarantee and those which don't have such a guarantee but where one can point to widespread general use.
In the first category one would include vitrified porcelain-bodied floor tiles (Their slimness also means that they are suitable for roof-terraces and not just patios and gardens) and certain natural stones. Porcelain floor tiles are either glazed or unglazed and because of their very low porosity (less than 0.5%) both from above and below they are normally supplied with an EN202 porosity resistant qualification. This means that even if the tiles are not fixed properly the worst that can happen is that the tiles will lift, but they will remain unaffected by the frost. Certain stone tiles do come with manufacturers' recommendation about external suitability but in our experience this is usually prefaced with the recommendation that they are a certain thickness (maybe 3 or 4cm) or with a surface finish. We would always wish to discuss individual requirements with stone.
In the second category come products such as slate. Whilst some slate tiles are more durable than others, there is a general history of their use outside and we have been selling them without problems for many years.
All tiles should be fixed with a solid bed of adhesive and with a fall to allow natural drainage.
Family Kitchens:
We have noticed that some stone suppliers tend to classify all domestic requirements under the general heading "residential". In our view, residential requirements can vary quite widely and nowhere is this more true than in the modern family kitchen. Our inclination is to follow the old ceramic tile classifications and to distinguish between general domestic and heavy domestic/light commercial. The wear and tear, abrasion, spillages and repeated cleaning will give any stone tile a much harder time than in any other room in the house. To anyone looking for a stone kitchen floor tile we would make the following observations:
1) Consider the porcelain alternatives; they are non-porous and low-maintenance.
2) Be prepared to pay more for a harder stone tile that will scratch less.
3) Consider a mottled stone or porcelain that will conceal day to day dirt.
4) Consider an aged or slightly distressed finish that does not need to look so perfect.
5) Be prepared to use neutral soaps to clean stone floors and reapply surface polishes.
The advice above is given in good faith in answer to F.A.Q.s, but we would always suggest you contact us about specific or significant details. You should always check the suitability of a given tile with your contractor.
Sealing and Maintenance
Porcelain and Ceramic tiles should need little in the way of maintenance once installed.
Natural materials should be cleaned with Lithofin Easy-care. In the event of any sealant failure due to either under-application or long term wear and tear, then more sealant may be required. Hard water build-up can be dealt with using Lithofin Power-clean.
Sealing Natural Materials:
ALL NATURAL STONE REQUIRES SEALING.
LIMESTONE is a delicate material that needs careful sealing. Thick varnishes and lacquers will destroy its aesthetic subtlety. Most stone tiles are therefore sealed with impregnating oil that soaks into the stone and cures without any substantial change in colour or surface appearance. We currently use Lithofin Stainstop, which will provide an effective barrier to oil and water staining. We have successfully used this on a pale cream limestone work surface test area for several years without any apparent stain. It should be pointed out, however, that spillages are wiped up and not left on the surface. This process is usually sufficient for dense stone or stone that is not subjected to high levels of traffic. Stone tiles often have small pin-holes and open fissures as part of its natural texture. This texture will tend to accumulate grit as part of the natural wearing process.
To reduce the effects of scuffing and heavy traffic, we normally recommend that an additional coat of Care Seal is applied. This is water based and easy to reapply in areas of high wear. Coarse textured or softer stone such as Cotswold stone, sandstone and antiqued travertine benefit from the additional surface protection of a stone wax. A neutral cleaner should always be used with stone, such as Lithofin Easy-care.
Stone tiles can often arrive on site still damp from the production line. They should be allowed to dry prior to sealing.
SLATE is a more rugged material than limestone and the sealing process is generally less complicated. It has a lower porosity than limestone and a surface protector is generally sufficient. We currently recommend Lithofin Slate Seal. This will give a slightly glossy finish to the floor. Slate tiles are very forgiving in use but we always recommend the use of Lithofin Easy-care for everyday maintenance with any natural material.
TERRACOTTA is a more porous material. The traditional impregnating fluid is boiled linseed oil. This soaks into the product, hardens, reduces porosity and generally enhances the colour and appearance of the tile. Linseed oil can be initially diluted with white spirit or used neat. You normally need to apply several coats to saturate the tile, but do not allow any excess to dry on the surface. Dispose of oily rags carefully as they are combustible. Lithofin Terracotta Primer is a ready made mixture of Boiled Linseed Oil and White Spirit, ideal for use with Terracotta. After the application of the primer, you will then need several coats of Terracotta Antique Wax as part of the installation process. Reapplications of this wax will depend on levels of traffic but the process can be simplified by using a synthetic liquid primer and sealant: Terracotta Impregnator followed by Terracotta Sealer.
Regular cleaning should be with Lithofin Easy-care.
Terracotta tiles are often soaked after production. Tiles MUST be dry prior to sealing. This is absolutely critical in sunrooms or where there is under-floor heating.
Recommended Maintenance Products:
To Seal: Limestone, Marble, Slate (Matt Finish), Travertine and stone worktops.
To Seal: Slate (Gloss Finish)
Lithofin Caresheen:
Suitable for Limestone tiles, Slate tiles, Travertine tiles where a little sheen can make the surface easier to clean.
Lithofin also recommend that for Natural Stone tiles, Marble, Travertine tiles, Limestone tiles, Slate tiles and Casbah tiles that an appropriate neutral cleaner such as Lithofin Easy-care is used to preserve the longevity of the treatment.
Where a colour enhanced appearance is required on Limestone tiles, travertine tiles and various tumbled or antique marble tiles then we would recommend Lithofin Stainstop Colour Intensifier.